Weekend get aways from Delhi

Sunday, September 18, 2011

चार धाम यात्रा - यमुनोत्री

Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath constitute the four pilgrimage spots of the Chaar Dhaam Yatra (Chaar = four, Dhaam = abode, Yatra = journey).

Yamunotri, the first of these is easily accessible through a motorable road beyond Mussorie in Uttarakhand. All four spots are located within one day's hill driving distance from each other. Pligrims are usaually in great spirit on their way to Yamunotri, primarily for two reasons. First, this is the first trek they undertake, second, the trekking route is beautiful
yet beguiling. It comprises numerous winding stretches of approximately 200 to 300 meters, and thus a clear straight line sight is not available to the trekkers until they cover, abount 4.75 kilometers of the 7 km trek. The winding stretches also encourage the pilgrims, because each shoulder of the confronting hill appears to be the last one. However, one thing to remember in all visits to Uttarakhand hills, that it rains almost every evening irrespective of season. So start early, and try to reach your destination before 4 PM, and better still 3 PM because evening sets early in hills. Nights can be very chilly because of rain and strong winds & don't be fooled by scorching heat of Dehradun, Rishikesh or even Mussorie, because this is a different world.
Accommodation options at the startin point of the trek at Jaanki Chatti. There are several other options at Hanuman Chatti as well which is a few Kilometers downstream. There are Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited (GMVNL) run hotel / guest houses at both the places. Reasonably clean night resting places are available in the form of small private hotels as well.

Hill folks are genuinely helpful and innocent. If you have some one in the group who needs assistance or would need a horse or a carrier (called Pitthoo in local language), you can engage the mode of your choice from Janki Chatti which is the starting point of trek to Yamunotri. There is an organized counter and rates are displayed. Your horse bearer or the pitthoo or Palakin carriers expect tips in the form of refreshments or meals on the way, although you are not obliged, as the rates are all inclusive.


The trek takes up to 5 hours for 7 Kms as the last stretch is most treacherous. The path is narrow with sharp overhanging rocks and one needs to be very careful for not being pushed around by mules. However, if one ignores the chaos on this side of the Yamuna flowing down under, the other side of the river is a site for sore eyes. Sun continuously plays hide and seek and in the process presents some extremely interesting dancing interpaly of light and shadows.

Once at the temple, one can walk down to the glacier which is about 2 Km up stream which is the source of river Yamuna. Most of the pilgrims however prefer the Sulphur Springs which indeed are therapeutic for tired bodies. The water from hot water spring is so hot that is mixed with cold water before being collected in a tank in which pilgrims take a dip. There are separate enclosures for men and women.

The temple at Yamunotri is dedicated to an idol of river Yamuna as a Goddess. It gets completely buried under snow for more than six months in a year. The deity is worshipped as a goddess of power and prosperity, and giver of peace to the devout soul.
The return trek is not as taxing because of downhill slope. It is advisable to start early in the morning from Janki Chatti and return after spending a few hours at the temple, so as to reach Janki Chatti before sunset. As mentioned earlier the evening sets early, and clouds are regular customers who deliver showers intermittently in the evening hours.
However, wonders are never scarce in hills and these clouds almost always gone by mid night, and if you are still up at that chilly hour, and have the energy and motivation, and the luck to be there during the white phase of the moon, do not miss a chance to see the snow capped peaks bathed in milky moon light.
Needless to say that with the day's exertion deep sleep and rest is essential before next morning when one can start for next destination - Gangotri.



Friday, January 22, 2010

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Taj mahal - Poetry in marble

A picture speaks more than a thousand words











Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Bharatpur




Bharatpur is a very convenient weekend getaway destination from Delhi. We managed to combine it with a very pleasant trip to bharatpur and Agra within one weekend. Bharatpur was a chance destination as we left delhi on August 14th for Sariska, only to reach there and discover that the sanctuary was closed for the season. Unfortunately correct and sufficient information regarding the timimgs is not available on the internet either.





However, having reached the gates of Sariska at noon we decided to drive on to Bharatpur. We relied on the advice of the Dhaba owner on the highway for taking the straight route which he described as a shortcut. we were to discover later that never rely on a Rajasthan State highway, or a local link road. Our new scorpio was in for a gruelling test, and sometimes we felt we driving through the backyards of farmers, who had their extended households spread on the road, and obliged us by granting us a right of passage. Leave the road condition out of your mind and the sight outside was extremely pleasant and green.





From Sariska to Bharatpur took more time than we had anticipated. The roads are under construction, and therefore the drive is slow. We reached late in the evening, checked into our guest house. There are plenty of hotels at reasonable rates within a walking distance from the sanctuary. Although the winter season is the peak time, we were told that this year has been bad in terms of tourists because the sanctuary didn’t attract that many birds. It was the result of a bad monsoon, which led to the lakes drying up. The authorities were using pumps to fill up the lakes as much as they could. Now at 9 PM the town seemed to be already in deep slumber. We asked for a dinner destination and were recommended SARAS, a Rajasthan Government outlet, and were also advised to checkout a new joint by the highway. We visited both the places, and found the restaurants to be almost deserted. Ultimately, it was good old Cafe Coffee Day outlet at Petrol pump and vegetarian sandwiches for us.

Next day early morning at 7 we were at the gates of the sanctuary, only to discover that we were there too early. Some persistence with the guards ta the gate brought out an official who agreed to get the museum opened for us while the official vehicles were awaited.


A word about history of the kingdom of Bharatpur.In 1733 AD, Raja Badan Singh 's adopted son, Suraj Mal had shown signs of promise, when he captured the fort of Bharatpur from Khemkaran, the rival chief, whom he killed and thus laid the foundation of Bharatpur City.
Maharaja Suraj Mal displayed immense courage and carved a niche for himself in the midst of political disorder. Gathering around him fiercely martial Jat peasants, he went from one success to another. He accompanied Emperor Muhammed Shah against Ali Muhammed Ruhela and in 1748 AD, at the battle of Bagru he led the Jaipur vanguard against the Marathas. He also defeated the commander-in-chief of the Mughal emperor. Despite being a very religious man he was secular.
Bharatpur, which is also called the Eastern gateway of Rajasthan, was found by Maharaja Suraj mal in 1733 AD. Raja Badan Singh’s adopted son, Suraj Mal had shown signs of promise, when he captured the fort of Bharatpur from Khemkaran, the rival chief, whom he killed and thus laid the foundation of Bharatpur City. Maharaja Suraj Mal displayed immense courage and carved a niche for himself in the midst of political disorder. Gathering around him fiercely martial Jat peasants, he went from one success to another. He accompanied Emperor Mohammed Shah against Ali Mohammed Ruhela and in 1748 AD, at the battle of Bagru he led the Jaipur vanguard against the Marathas. He also defeated the commander- in –Chief of the Mughal emperor.
He built numerous forts and palaces across the kingdom including the Pleasure Palace complex at Deeg. Bharatpur, is today known the world – over for its Keoladeo Ghana National Park.

So much for history. The museum concentrates on the ornithology heritage of the town.
It has some very interesting information on local flora and fauna. A short visit to the museum before entry in to the sanctuary can be a very good appetiser for the uninitiated (pun intended!!)




Out of the museum we were headed inside the sanctuary. There are three options for the trip inside. The best of course is on foot. However, you do have an option of either hiring a cycle rikshaw or engaging an official Battery powered vehicle. Latter comes with a guide cum driver, who is an essential requirement to make some meaning of what one sees inside.


The cycle rikshaw ride comes with its own share of unauthenticated information from the pullers, who in any case find it extremely amusing that people should travel great distances to watch the birds.





There is one arterial main road which travels about 4 Km inside the sanctuary. An old Shiva temple is located here alongside the remains of summer house of erstwhile rulers of Bharatpur kingdom. What one notices is that even the battery powered vehicle is not quite as quiet as it is expected to be. The driver shuts it down to allow us to observe the fauna around. The chatter of uninformed tourists can be a real distraction for the bird lovers and their beloved, as birds realyy play truant, and hardly any exotic species can be seen by walking along the road. At the end of the road one has to quietly walk on foot, along the water body, giving due respect to the fact that we are the vistors and the place actually belongs to the birds, who are the original inhabitants of this place. Our labor of love payed off, and we did manage to get a glimpse of a rare bald eagle. My Sony DSLR Alpha 100, came really handy, as we could manage some great long shots.

I leave you with some of these images.









We left Bharat pur and drove on to Agra. More about that you can check out in this same Blog an the other chapter on Agra. Enjoy !!

Monday, May 19, 2008

Haridwar

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Haridwar is 200 km North of Delhi. One can drive down to this holy town in about 5 hours. Cross the Yamuna either from ITO or Nizamuddin, and enter UP through Ghaziabad. The traffic is heavy till we cross Modi nagar, about 30 Km out of Ghaziabad. There after two bye pass roads allow us to skip the crowded cities of Meerut and Muzaffarnagar. The National Highway construction activity enroute seems very promising, as the road is excellent in certain stretches (almost as good as Delhi Agra route)



Haridwar is small town, and most of the habitat is sandwiched between the river ganges and Himalayan foothills. An artificial stream has been created for providing ample bathing ghats on this river, which is visited by millions of devotees every six and twelve years on the occasion of Ardh Kumbh and Maha Kumbh.



The most prominent bathing ghat is Har Ki Paudi, with a landmark clock tower in the center. This is the location which hosts the famed Ganga Aarti every evening. Once on the ghats, the connection to divinity is quick and the religious fervor is overpowering. Water is extremely cold even in the blistering heat of June, that is until one takes the first dip. One can not ignore the very visible signs of growth and development of the local vendor community. Commercial wisdom is quick to draw. So while you are contemplating on finding a safe and dry location for your belongings when an adept sales person presents you with a range of plastic sheets you can buy. Once you take a dip and emerge gasping, only to find a very caring and concerned agent of God, with a glass of milk to offer to the Gods. He will be patient and persist in case you decide to take more dips.


There are may temples around Haridwar, but two most prominent are Chandi Devi and Mansha Devi. Both the temples in true tradition of devis are on top of high hills. But there are ropeways up to both, and one can get a combo ticket for both temples at either location. Mansha Devi is about one km from Har Ki Paudi, and the rope way point can be reached by walking from the ghats.


Chandi Devi is about 4 km out of town, and one would need transportation. It is advisable not to fall for the combo offer, as the waiting time for transport from one temple to the other can be a real drain.


Up at the Chandi Devi temple there is another temple dedicated to Anjana Devi, mother of lord Hanuman. This is the location where the mother of the lord is supposed to have spent her time in meditation.


If you have the time and inclination, you can also plan a small trip out to Narendra Nagar to Kuja Devi temple. This is a Siddh Peeth where the chest of Gauri was suppose to have fallen after her body was severed by Lord Vishnu to bring lord Shiva out of the trance of Tandav. There are 308 steps to be climbed after the drive. The place is definitely charming and has some power about it. This is about 40 Km out of Haridwar, on the Badri Nath Route and one can see snow clad peaks on a clear day. The drive is a sample of the hilly roads that lie ahead, if you wish to proceed to Badri Nath. All that later...

Friday, September 14, 2007

Sariska

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Sariska is located in Alwar deistrict of Rajasthan, and is famous for its "missing" tigers in the tiger resort. Its a 200 Km drive from Delhi, through Gurgaon. One has to be careful not overshooting the critical left turn getting off from the flyover on NH8. The signage is missing as of now and its advisable to get your directions before you get on to the highway in Gurgaon. Remember you do not have to cross Gurgaon!

Sariska like all other forest reserves is out of bounds during India Monsoon season, i.e. June to September. So if you plan to visit during these months, there is an alternative available. A small 15 Km drive off the highway takes you to pictursque Chilli lake in Alwar. Remember to drive straight up to the Rajasthan government run hotel on top of the hill. Don't be taken in by the crowds and local shopkeepers who insist you have reached, the lake, and what is on offer here is edge of the lake and a walk across the barrage. Local transport parks here, and humdrum are restrained. The awkwardly closed gates of Rajasthant tourist department run hotel do not really add to the invitation and the imposing structure of the erstwhile summer palace keeps the public at bay. You have to honk and glare to have the gates open, and after driving in and parking, you will be approached by the attendadnt for parking fee which is adjusted against your bills should you choose to stay or use the restaurant.

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Once on top the open terrace presents a 270 degree view of the vast expanse of the lake. The sight is a sheer delight. I went crazy with my Sony DSLR alpha 100. Even the wide angle can not take in the full view. Cool breeze and interplay of sun and shade with dancing clouds above, make for a very rejuvnating experience. Enjoy.

The tower located in the middle of the lake belongs to the canal department of the state government. It makes for an enigmatic sight.
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There is an option of boating as well. Sad part is the laid back un enthusiastic attitude of the staff. There is very little punch and boating is off more often than it is on. So bide by your luck !!

The drive from here to Sarisk reserve presents some very pleasing sights. Sample these ...
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The green stretches hide a rivulet that runs along the road.
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The majestic entrance to the Sariska National Park.


The board announcing the schedule. There is restricted entrance up to a temple located inside the reserve on Tuesday and Saturday.

If you have just one day on your schedule, drive back to Delhi. Else drive on to Bharatpur, that is 120 Km away. Stay the night, visit the bird sanctuary in the morning, and drive on to Sikri that is about 55 29 Km away. Spend 3 to 4 hours there and then drive another 30 km to reach Agra. Visit the fort, and then drive on to the Taj by 3 PM when it opens againg after a recess of two hours every afternoon. Delhi is just 200 km and a comfortable 3 and half hour away. So you would be back just in time !!

I leave you with some more images of the way....




Here is the pick of the day. Beleive me we didn't start this fire !!! It was already burning .... so long.

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